On this page
- Borjomi Has a Real Food Scene — You Just Have to Know Where to Look
- The Central Market and the Street Food Corridor Behind It
- Meskheti Street: The Main Dining Strip
- Khinkali Spots and Where to Find Proper Mtsvadi
- Bakeries, Churchkhela Stalls and Places for Something Sweet
- Mineral Water at the Table: How It Shapes Dining Here
- Wine and Chacha Bars for a Town Known for Its Spring Water
- Cafés for Slow Mornings and Long Lunches
- 2026 Budget Breakdown: What Food Costs in Borjomi
- Practical Tips for Eating Well in Borjomi
- Frequently Asked Questions
💰 Click here to see Georgia Budget Breakdown
💰 Prices updated: August, 2026. Budget figures are estimates — always verify before travel.
Exchange Rate: $1 USD = ₾2.62
Daily Budget (per person)
Shoestring: ₾80.00 – ₾120.00 ($30.53 – $45.80)
Mid-range: ₾150.00 – ₾300.00 ($57.25 – $114.50)
Comfortable: ₾500.00 – ₾1,000.00 ($190.84 – $381.68)
Accommodation (per night)
Hostel/guesthouse: ₾30.00 – ₾60.00 ($11.45 – $22.90)
Mid-range hotel: ₾140.00 – ₾200.00 ($53.44 – $76.34)
Food (per meal)
Budget meal: ₾15.00 ($5.73)
Mid-range meal: ₾55.00 ($20.99)
Upscale meal: ₾100.00 ($38.17)
Transport
Single metro/bus trip: ₾1.00 ($0.38)
Monthly transport pass: ₾40.00 ($15.27)
Borjomi Has a Real Food Scene — You Just Have to Know Where to Look
Most people arrive in Borjomi with one thing on their mind: the mineral water. The spa parks, the sulphur springs, the mountain air. Food is an afterthought, something to fuel the walks between balneological treatments. That’s a mistake. In 2026, Borjomi’s restaurant scene has quietly matured — not into anything pretentious, but into something genuinely satisfying, with a handful of spots that would hold their own in Tbilisi. The challenge isn’t finding good food here. It’s knowing which places are coasting on tourist traffic and which ones are actually cooking. This guide skips the obvious and tells you where the locals eat, where to spend your lari wisely, and what to order when you get there.
The Central Market and the Street Food Corridor Behind It
Borjomi’s central market sits just off Petriashvili Street, a short walk from the main park entrance. It’s small by Georgian standards — nothing like the sprawling Deserter’s Market in Tbilisi — but it punches above its weight for a town this size. Come on a Saturday morning and the stalls are packed with produce from the surrounding Samtskhe-Javakheti villages: earthy purple potatoes, fat walnuts still in their shells, dried herbs tied in rough bundles, and jars of tkemali (sour plum sauce) in shades from pale yellow to deep red.
The real action is the informal food corridor that runs along the back edge of the market toward the bus station. This is where you’ll find churchkhela sellers hanging their wax-coated walnut strings in rows like candles, women grilling lobiani (bean-stuffed bread) on blackened pans over open gas flames, and one permanently busy stall that sells fresh-pressed walnut oil from a hand-operated press. The smell of that oil — rich, slightly bitter, intensely nutty — hits you from five metres away.
For a quick, cheap meal in the market area, look for the woman near the corner who sells fresh-baked shotis puri (the elongated Georgian bread) for 1.50 GEL per loaf and pairs it with a scoop of thick bean paste from an enormous pot. This is breakfast for most of the vendors around her.
Meskheti Street: The Main Dining Strip
Meskheti Street is the spine of Borjomi’s tourist-facing restaurant scene, running parallel to the Mtkvari River through the centre of town. In 2026, it holds a mix of Georgian taverns, a couple of pizza places aimed at families, and a few newer spots that opened after the post-2024 wave of domestic tourism investment. Not everything on this street is worth your time — some restaurants have laminated menus that haven’t changed since 2019 and chefs to match — but several stand out.
Mimino on Meskheti is a reliable choice for proper Meskhetian-style cooking, which leans heavier on meat and less on the walnut-paste dishes more common in eastern Georgia. The portions are enormous and the supra-style sharing setup means a table of four can eat well for under 120 GEL including wine. The wood-panelled interior feels authentically worn rather than decoratively rustic.
Restaurant Likani, near the southern end of Meskheti, has the best river view of any dining room in town. The terrace is open from late April through October, and sitting there at dusk watching the Mtkvari catch the last light while a plate of ojakhuri (pan-fried pork with potatoes and onions) arrives sizzling in a clay dish is one of Borjomi’s genuinely good moments. Service can be slow when it’s busy — this is not the place if you’re catching a train.
Khinkali Spots and Where to Find Proper Mtsvadi
Khinkali in the mountain regions surrounding Borjomi are made with rougher, thicker dough than the versions you get in Tbilisi, and they’re typically filled with a simple spiced meat mixture — lamb and pork — with a generous pool of juice inside. The best khinkali in town are not served in the sit-down restaurants on Meskheti Street. They’re made at Khinkalishvili, a no-frills spot on a side street running toward the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park entrance road. There’s no English sign. Look for the hand-painted Georgian lettering and a small wooden bench outside usually occupied by at least one local. Khinkali here are 1.80 GEL each, steamed fresh in batches, and you eat standing at a counter or take them away in a paper bag. Order a minimum of eight.
For mtsvadi — Georgian shashlik, chunks of pork or lamb grilled over vine-wood embers — the best option in town is a small outdoor grill set up in the evenings near the entrance to the Borjomi city park. It operates seasonally, typically from May through September, from around 6pm. The smoke from vine wood has a specific sweetness that coal or charcoal can’t replicate, and the meat here is marinated simply with onion and pomegranate. A skewer costs 12–16 GEL depending on size.
Bakeries, Churchkhela Stalls and Places for Something Sweet
Borjomi has a handful of small bakeries that open early — by 7am — and run out of their best items by 10am. The most consistent is a small operation near the park’s main fountain called Tone Bakery (locals just call it “the tone” after the traditional clay oven). They make fresh puri every morning, baked flat against the inside wall of an underground clay oven, and the bread comes out blackened on the bottom and chewy inside, with a yeasty, slightly smoky flavour that no modern oven can approximate. A loaf costs 2 GEL. They also make nazuki — the sweet, cardamom-spiced bread from the Imereti region — on Fridays and Saturdays.
Churchkhela is sold everywhere in Borjomi given its proximity to Kakheti wine country and the walnut groves of the Samtskhe highlands, but quality varies wildly. The best versions are the ones made with dark grape must (the coating should be almost black or deep burgundy, not pale orange) and with full walnut halves threaded inside rather than broken pieces. The stalls near the Borjomi mineral water drinking fountain in the central park consistently stock the better-quality ones — expect to pay 8–12 GEL for a full string.
For something warmer and sweeter, Café Palitra near the central park entrance makes decent gozinaki (honey-caramelised walnut brittle) and serves it alongside strong Turkish-style coffee. It’s a small, slightly chaotic room with mismatched furniture, but it fills up on cool evenings with families sharing dessert after the park walk.
Mineral Water at the Table: How It Shapes Dining Here
This is something visitors almost always overlook. Borjomi’s famous mineral water — sodium bicarbonate-heavy, distinctly salty-savoury, with a faint sulphuric edge — is used in the local kitchen in ways that don’t appear on any menu description. Several older Borjomi cooks use the mineral water as a tenderising brine for meat before grilling. Some bakers use it in dough. At the drinking fountain in the park, locals fill reusable bottles daily for use at home — it’s free and considered medicinal.
At the table, every proper restaurant in Borjomi will offer you Borjomi mineral water alongside still water, and the unspoken local habit is to drink it between courses rather than with food. Georgians in this town believe it aids digestion. Whether or not you believe that, drinking a small glass of cold Borjomi between a khinkali course and a main is a genuinely refreshing ritual — the fizz cuts through the fat of the meat, and the mineral sharpness resets the palate. It costs 4–6 GEL for a 500ml bottle at restaurants, but you can fill your own bottle at the park fountain for free.
Wine and Chacha Bars for a Town Known for Its Spring Water
The irony of Borjomi is that a town famous for healthy mineral water sits within an hour of some of Georgia’s most interesting wine regions — Meskheti to the south and the fringes of Kartli to the north. In 2026, a small but genuine wine bar scene has taken hold, driven partly by Georgian domestic tourists who want to drink well after their spa afternoons.
Sakartvelo Wine Bar, which opened in late 2024 on a quiet street behind the central market, stocks an impressive range of natural Georgian wines — amber, skin-contact qvevri-fermented bottles alongside lighter Rkatsiteli and Chinuri. The owner, who spent several years working in Tbilisi’s wine bar scene, runs occasional vertical tastings of Kartvelian varietals on Friday evenings. A glass starts at 12 GEL, a bottle from 45 GEL.
For chacha — Georgia’s grape-marc spirit, roughly equivalent to grappa — the best place isn’t a bar at all. There’s a small shop attached to a private home on the road toward Likani (the suburb upriver from central Borjomi) where a retired schoolteacher sells home-distilled chacha in unlabelled 500ml bottles for 20 GEL. Everyone in town knows about it. Ask your guesthouse host and they’ll point you there.
Cafés for Slow Mornings and Long Lunches
Borjomi’s café culture is unhurried by design. The town operates on resort time — nobody is rushing to a meeting. The best cafés lean into that rhythm.
Café Borjomi near the main park gates has been serving coffee and cakes to visitors since at least the late Soviet era, and it shows — the decor is faded in a way that feels historical rather than neglected. In 2025 it added a decent espresso machine, which means you can now get a properly made Americano alongside the traditional instant or Turkish-style option. The walnut cake here (natively called nigvziani namuqhvari) is dense, intensely sweet, and best ordered with a black coffee to balance it.
Green House Café, which opened in spring 2025 in a renovated 19th-century building near the Romanov palace ruins, is the most atmospherically interesting place in town for a long lunch. The menu skews vegetarian-friendly, which is unusual for this part of Georgia — the pkhali platter (compressed balls of various spiced vegetables and herbs) is excellent, and they do a beetroot version that is genuinely exceptional. The courtyard fills with afternoon light until about 4pm, and on clear days you can see the forested hillsides above town from your table.
2026 Budget Breakdown: What Food Costs in Borjomi
Borjomi is meaningfully cheaper than Tbilisi for food across all tiers, and even the better restaurants remain very accessible by European standards.
- Budget (under 30 GEL per day): Market breakfast (shotis puri + bean paste, 3–4 GEL), khinkali lunch from the side-street spot (8–10 GEL for eight), a simple chakapuli or lobio at a no-frills canteen in the evening (8–12 GEL). Coffee from a market stall: 3 GEL. This is genuinely achievable without feeling like you’re roughing it.
- Mid-range (60–100 GEL per day): Sit-down breakfast at a café (10–15 GEL), a full lunch at Mimino or a comparable tavern including wine (30–40 GEL for one), dinner with a glass of wine at Sakartvelo Wine Bar (25–35 GEL). You’re eating well at this tier.
- Comfortable (120–180 GEL per day): Café breakfast with proper coffee and pastry (15–20 GEL), long lunch at Green House Café or Restaurant Likani terrace (40–55 GEL), evening wine tasting plus dinner (50–70 GEL). At this level you’re eating at the best places in town every meal with no compromise.
Note: All prices are in Georgian lari (GEL) and reflect 2026 levels. A beer at a bar runs 8–12 GEL. A half-litre of local house wine at a restaurant is typically 18–25 GEL. Bottled Borjomi mineral water at a restaurant: 4–6 GEL (500ml).
Practical Tips for Eating Well in Borjomi
Lunch is the main meal. Georgian dining culture in smaller towns like Borjomi centres the big meal at midday, not in the evening. Restaurants are busiest between 1pm and 3pm. If you go for dinner expecting the full kitchen output, some items — especially fresh-made dishes like chakapuli (lamb and tarragon stew, seasonal) — may be unavailable by 7pm because the batch from lunch is gone.
Cash is still preferred. While Tbilisi restaurants are increasingly card-friendly, many of Borjomi’s smaller spots — including the khinkali stall, the market vendors, and the chacha seller near Likani — are cash only. Carry small denomination lari. There are ATMs near the park entrance and on Meskheti Street.
The seasonal gap is real. Several of the better outdoor spots and some cafés operate only from April or May through October. If you’re visiting in January or February, expect a reduced dining landscape — the mineral water park draws year-round visitors, but the food scene shrinks noticeably in deep winter. The core options (Mimino, Khinkalishvili, the market) stay open, but you’ll have fewer choices.
Ask about daily specials. Almost no restaurant in Borjomi prints daily specials on a board or mentions them proactively. Ask your waiter directly — in Georgian: “dghes ras amzadebt?” (what are you making today?). This often unlocks seasonal dishes, slow-cooked items, or whatever the cook felt like making that morning, none of which appear on the laminated menu.
Vegetarians are not well catered to by default, but Georgian cuisine has excellent vegetarian options when you know to ask. Pkhali, lobio (spiced bean stew), badrijani nigvzit (aubergine with walnut paste), and ajapsandali (vegetable stew) are all typically available even at meat-heavy taverns. Green House Café is the one place in town that makes this genuinely easy.
Frequently Asked Questions
What food is Borjomi known for?
Borjomi is best known for its mineral water, but the food scene reflects classic Samtskhe-Javakheti highland cooking — hearty meat dishes, thick-doughed khinkali, grilled mtsvadi over vine-wood embers, and rich walnut-based preparations. The proximity to mountain villages means fresh produce and good walnuts are constants at local tables.
Where is the best place to eat in Borjomi?
For a full sit-down meal, Restaurant Likani (terrace, river view) and Mimino on Meskheti Street are the most consistent options. For the most authentic, cheap experience, the khinkali spot near the national park entrance road and the market street food stalls are where locals actually eat. Green House Café is best for vegetarians and long lunches.
Is Borjomi expensive for food?
No — Borjomi is noticeably cheaper than Tbilisi. A filling lunch at a proper tavern with wine runs 30–45 GEL per person. Street food and market meals cost under 10 GEL. Even the better wine bar and café options are accessible. Budget travelers can eat well here for under 30 GEL per day in 2026.
Are there vegetarian restaurants in Borjomi?
There are no dedicated vegetarian restaurants in Borjomi, but Green House Café (opened 2025) has the most vegetarian-friendly menu in town, including a standout pkhali platter. Most Georgian taverns can accommodate vegetarians on request — ask specifically for pkhali, lobio, badrijani nigvzit, and ajapsandali, all of which are plant-based.
When is the best time to visit Borjomi for food?
Late spring through early autumn (May to September) gives you the widest range of restaurants, open-air grills, and market produce. Summer brings seasonal dishes like chakapuli (lamb and tarragon stew) and the freshest local vegetables. Winter is possible but the food scene contracts — several outdoor spots and some cafés close until April.
📷 Featured image by Darya Luganskaya on Unsplash.