Beyond Borjomi Park: Essential Excursions in Central Georgia

Borjomi‘s mineral water park draws visitors in, and then — for many of them — keeps them there. In 2026, the town fills faster than ever between May and September, and a surprising number of travellers spend their entire stay walking the same riverside promenade, trying the same sulphurous spring, and wondering why the days feel short. Central Georgia within a two-hour radius of Borjomi is some of the most varied terrain in the country: medieval cave cities, Ottoman-era fortresses, serious mountain trails, and ski villages that run year-round. The trips below are all doable as day excursions from Borjomi, and every one of them will give you something the park simply cannot.

Rabati Castle and the Akhaltsikhe Old Town Circuit

Akhaltsikhe sits 57 kilometres southwest of Borjomi, roughly an hour by road. The town itself is unremarkable, but Rabati Castle is not. The fortress complex was comprehensively restored in the early 2010s — controversially so, with critics calling it too polished — but standing inside the upper citadel in the early morning, before the tour buses arrive, the scale of the place is genuinely arresting. The mosque, Orthodox church, and synagogue occupy the same hillside within metres of each other, a physical record of the region’s shifting empires.

Plan to arrive by 9:00. The castle opens at 10:00, but the surrounding old town streets are already active: a small covered market near the main square sells churchkhela, dried fruit, and local honey that the vendors pack tightly into cloth bags for travellers to carry. The smell of fresh walnut paste warming in the sun is hard to ignore.

Admission to Rabati in 2026 costs 15 GEL for adults. The upper citadel requires a separate ticket of 5 GEL. Budget two to three hours for the complex and the adjacent old town. If you are combining this with Vardzia (see below), Akhaltsikhe is a logical midpoint stop.

Vardzia Cave Monastery — Timing, Terrain, and What to Expect

Vardzia is 75 kilometres from Borjomi, roughly 1 hour 45 minutes by road. The cave monastery carved into the Erusheti Mountain in the 12th century under Queen Tamar is one of those sites that photographs do not prepare you for. The cliff face honeycombed with hundreds of chambers, refectories, and chapels rises about 500 metres above the Mtkvari River valley, and when you are inside the tunnels — rock-cool even in August, with dim light pushing through narrow windows cut into the cliff — the density of human work compressed into that stone is difficult to process.

Logistics matter here. Vardzia sits at roughly 1,400 metres elevation, and the path through the complex involves uneven stone steps and steep passages with minimal handrails. Allow a minimum of two hours on site, more if you want to reach the upper terraces. Wear closed shoes. The site is exposed to direct sun for most of the afternoon, so starting your visit before 11:00 is strongly advisable from May through September.

Admission is 15 GEL in 2026. There is a small café at the base of the site — the coffee is basic but the views across the valley while you drink it are not. The cave church of the Assumption retains original 12th-century frescoes, and even partially damaged, the blues and ochres hold remarkable intensity under torch or morning light.

If you are hiring a private car from Borjomi, a combined Akhaltsikhe-Vardzia day trip covering both sites is entirely feasible. Leave Borjomi by 8:00, stop at Rabati for two hours, continue to Vardzia, and return by early evening.

Borjomi–Kharagauli National Park Trails

Most visitors associate Borjomi with the spa park — a flat, managed riverside walk designed for leisurely strolling. The Borjomi–Kharagauli National Park, one of the largest protected areas in the Caucasus, begins effectively at the edge of town and offers something categorically different.

The park’s trail system was substantially upgraded between 2023 and 2025 under a USAID-supported conservation programme. Trail markers are now consistent, and the park visitor centre on the eastern edge of Borjomi — open from 09:00 daily — provides free printed maps and updated condition reports. The staff speak English and can advise on current trail accessibility, which matters because snowmelt keeps some higher routes closed until June.

• Likani–Timotesubani Trail (12 km return): Passes through beech and pine forest to a medieval church. Moderate difficulty. Full day recommended.
• Borjomi Gorge Loop (6 km): Accessible from town, shorter, suitable for families. Ends near a secondary mineral spring not on the main promenade.
• Sachkhere Ridge Trail (requires overnight permit): Multi-day route; not a day trip, but the visitor centre can arrange permits in advance.

Entry to the national park costs 10 GEL per person per day in 2026. No guide is required for marked trails, but solo hikers should register at the visitor centre before departing.

Bakuriani and the Goderdzi Pass Road

Bakuriani is 30 kilometres from Borjomi by road — a short distance that takes around 45 minutes because the route climbs sharply through forested switchbacks. The village sits at 1,700 metres and functions primarily as a ski resort in winter, but in summer and autumn it shifts into a quieter mode: cool temperatures when Borjomi is warm, open meadows, and a genuinely slow pace that the lower valley lacks.

The narrow-gauge railway that once connected Borjomi to Bakuriani — the famous “Kukushka” line — still operates on a limited seasonal schedule in 2026. Check the Georgian Railway website for current timetables before planning around it; service is not daily outside peak winter months. The train journey itself, through dense forest and across small viaducts, takes about two and a half hours and is the more interesting way to travel even if it is slower.

From Bakuriani, the road continuing southwest toward Goderdzi Pass (2,025 metres) is fully paved as of 2025 and passable by standard vehicles from late May through October. The drive to the pass and back adds about two hours to a Bakuriani day trip, and the views across the Adjara highlands from the top — rolling plateau, no dramatic peaks, just enormous open sky — are a genuine contrast to the enclosed gorge landscape around Borjomi.

Getting Around Without a Car in 2026

Borjomi has no local car rental office. The nearest reliable rental operations are in Tbilisi and, increasingly, Kutaisi, which added several international rental desks following new direct European routes into Kutaisi International Airport in 2025 and 2026. If you did not arrange a car before arriving in Borjomi, your realistic options are these:

• Marshrutkas to Akhaltsikhe: Depart from Borjomi’s central bus stop several times daily from around 08:00. Journey time is about one hour. Fare is approximately 5–7 GEL. From Akhaltsikhe, separate marshrutkas serve Vardzia (around 10 GEL, less frequent — typically 10:00 and 13:00 departures, but confirm locally).
• Shared taxis: More flexible than marshrutkas, negotiated at the bus stop. A shared taxi to Akhaltsikhe typically costs 10–15 GEL per seat.
• Private taxi hire: For a full-day Akhaltsikhe–Vardzia circuit, expect to pay 150–200 GEL for the vehicle. Negotiate before departure and confirm whether petrol is included — it usually is, but not always.



• Bolt: Bolt operates in Borjomi as of 2026 but coverage for long-distance day trips is unreliable. It works well for getting from your accommodation to the bus stop.

For Bakuriani, marshrutkas run from Borjomi several times daily for around 5 GEL. The Kukushka train is the slower but more scenic option — book through the Georgian Railway app or website.

2026 Budget Reality for Day Trips from Borjomi

Prices below reflect actual 2026 conditions and include transport, admission, and a basic meal. They assume a solo traveller; costs per person drop with a group sharing private transport.

Budget (public transport, self-guided)

• Akhaltsikhe day trip: transport 14–20 GEL return, admission 20 GEL, lunch 20–30 GEL — total roughly 55–70 GEL
• Vardzia added to Akhaltsikhe (marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe): extra 20 GEL transport, 15 GEL admission — adds 35 GEL
• National Park day hike: 10 GEL entry, packed lunch from Borjomi market 15–20 GEL — total 25–30 GEL
• Bakuriani by marshrutka: 10 GEL return transport, lunch in village 25–35 GEL — total 35–45 GEL

Mid-range (private taxi, entry fees, sit-down meals)

• Akhaltsikhe–Vardzia full day: private car 150–200 GEL, admissions 35 GEL, meals 50–70 GEL — total 235–305 GEL per person (solo), significantly less when split across 3–4 people

Comfortable (guided private tour)

• Full-day guided tours to Vardzia or Rabati booked through Tbilisi-based operators (most now offer Borjomi pickup): 300–450 GEL per person, including English-speaking guide, vehicle, and lunch

Frequently Asked Questions

How far is Vardzia from Borjomi?

Vardzia is approximately 75 kilometres from Borjomi by road, taking around 1 hour 45 minutes by private car. By public transport, you typically need to travel to Akhaltsikhe first and then take a separate marshrutka or taxi to the site, which adds time and requires checking local departure schedules on the day.

Can you visit Rabati Castle and Vardzia in one day from Borjomi?

Yes, but only comfortably by private car. Leave Borjomi by 08:00, spend two hours at Rabati, continue to Vardzia for the midday visit, and return by early evening. By public transport, the connection between Akhaltsikhe and Vardzia is limited, making a same-day return to Borjomi very tight.

Is the Borjomi–Kharagauli National Park suitable for casual walkers?

The shorter trails, including the Borjomi Gorge Loop at 6 kilometres, are accessible to most people with basic fitness. The longer trails involve significant elevation gain and are better suited to experienced hikers. The park visitor centre provides up-to-date trail condition reports and can help you match a route to your fitness level.

Does the Kukushka train to Bakuriani still run in 2026?

Yes, the narrow-gauge railway between Borjomi and Bakuriani still operates in 2026 on a seasonal and limited schedule. It runs more reliably during winter ski season. Outside those months, service may be reduced to weekends or specific days. Always check the Georgian Railway website or app for current timetables before planning your trip around it.

What is the best time of year for day trips from Borjomi?

May through October is the most practical window. Vardzia and Rabati are accessible year-round but most pleasant in spring and autumn. The national park trails open fully from June once snowmelt clears the higher paths. Bakuriani and the Goderdzi Pass road are reliably accessible by car from late May through October.

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📷 Featured image by Liuba Kotorobay on Unsplash.