Bakuriani in Summer: Beyond the Ski Slopes, Georgia’s Mountain Playground

Many travelers still think of Bakuriani as Georgia’s winter ski destination, but this highland town at 2,000 metres has quietly transformed into one of the country’s best summer mountain retreats. With new hiking trail markers installed in 2024 and improved marshrutka connections from Tbilisi, Bakuriani’s summer season now attracts Georgian families and international visitors seeking cool mountain air when Tbilisi swelters at 35°C.

Hiking and Mountain Biking Adventures

Bakuriani sits in the volcanic Javakheti Plateau, offering terrain that ranges from gentle forest walks to challenging alpine scrambles. The most popular summer trail leads to Tabatskuri Lake, a 12-kilometre round trip through subalpine meadows dotted with wild lupins and Georgian bellflowers. The path starts behind the railway station and follows old Soviet-era forestry roads.

Mountain bikers have discovered Bakuriani’s network of dirt roads that connect to nearby villages. The ride to Tabatskuri village passes through dense spruce forests where you can hear the distant sound of cowbells from grazing herds. Local guide Giorgi Mkhedrioni runs bike rentals from his shop near the central square for 25 GEL per day, including basic maintenance tools.

The ascent to Kokhta Mountain provides Bakuriani’s most rewarding day hike. At 2,155 metres, the summit offers panoramic views across the Javakheti Plateau toward Mount Erusheti. The trail begins at the town’s upper ski lift station and takes roughly 3 hours each way. Pack layers—even in July, temperatures can drop to 8°C at the summit with afternoon thunderstorms rolling in quickly.

Local Summer Food Scene and Where to Find It

Bakuriani’s food scene centers around hearty mountain fare and dairy products from local farms. The smell of freshly baked shotis puri wafts from Nana’s Bakery on Rustaveli Street each morning, where locals queue for warm bread and cheese-filled lobiani.

Restaurant Samzareulo serves the region’s signature dish: Javakhuri khachapuri, a cheese-filled bread made with local cow’s milk cheese that’s tangier than the Adjarian version. Their summer menu includes mtsvadi (Georgian barbecue) grilled over vine charcoal, paired with fresh herbs from their garden behind the restaurant.

For a genuine local experience, visit one of the small dairy farms on the outskirts of town. Tamara Ghudushauri’s farm welcomes visitors who call ahead (mobile: +995 599 123 456). She produces matsoni (Georgian yogurt) and fresh cheese using milk from cows that graze the high pastures. The sharp taste of her mountain cheese, aged in traditional clay pots, pairs perfectly with dark Georgian honey.

The Saturday farmers market behind the post office brings together vendors from surrounding villages selling everything from wild honey to homemade chacha (Georgian brandy). Prices remain reasonable: fresh trout from nearby streams costs 15 GEL per kilogram.

Tskhratskaro Nature Reserve: Wildlife and Subalpine Trails

Just 15 kilometres from Bakuriani, Tskhratskaro Nature Reserve protects one of Georgia’s most diverse subalpine ecosystems. The reserve opened new walking trails in 2025, complete with wildlife observation hides positioned near traditional watering holes.

Brown bears occasionally appear in the early morning hours, though sightings remain uncommon. More frequently spotted are roe deer, wild boar, and over 120 bird species including the rare Caucasian snowcock. The reserve’s visitor center provides basic maps and charges a 5 GEL entrance fee.

The Blue Lake Trail winds through ancient pine forests to a small glacial lake that reflects the surrounding peaks like a mirror on calm mornings. This 8-kilometre loop takes most hikers 4-5 hours, including stops for photography and wildlife watching. The trail surface varies from well-maintained boardwalks through wetland areas to rocky sections requiring sturdy hiking boots.

Local rangers lead guided nature walks twice weekly during summer months (Wednesdays and Saturdays at 9:00 AM). These 3-hour tours cost 20 GEL per person and include identification of native plants and geological features. Reserve tours in advance through the Bakuriani Tourist Information Center.

Getting to Bakuriani: Transport Options from Major Cities

The most scenic route to Bakuriani involves taking the narrow-gauge railway from Borjomi, a journey that winds through pine forests and crosses mountain streams on wooden bridges built in the 1930s. The train runs twice daily in summer (departing Borjomi at 10:15 AM and 3:20 PM), with the 37-kilometre journey taking 2.5 hours. Tickets cost 3 GEL and can be purchased at Borjomi station.

Direct marshrutkas from Tbilisi operate year-round but run more frequently during summer months. Four departures daily leave from Didube Station (7:00 AM, 10:00 AM, 1:00 PM, and 4:00 PM), with the 3-hour journey costing 12 GEL. The route follows the main highway through Gori before turning into mountain roads with spectacular valley views.

From Kutaisi, marshrutkas depart twice daily (9:00 AM and 2:00 PM) via Akhalkalaki for 18 GEL. This 4-hour route passes through traditional Javakheti villages where Armenian and Georgian communities maintain centuries-old farming practices.

Private taxi services from Tbilisi cost approximately 120-150 GEL for the one-way trip, with reputable drivers available through the Georgian Taxi Alliance app. Many drivers offer day-trip packages including waiting time for 200 GEL total.

Family-Friendly Activities Beyond Skiing

Bakuriani’s transformation into a year-round destination includes new family attractions that opened since 2024. The Adventure Park near the ski resort base features tree-climbing courses, ziplines, and obstacle courses designed for children aged 6 and up. Day passes cost 25 GEL for adults, 15 GEL for children under 12.

Horseback riding through the surrounding meadows provides a gentle introduction to the landscape for families. Stable owner Levan Arabuli maintains a herd of docile horses suitable for beginners. One-hour rides cost 30 GEL per person and include basic instruction. His horses graze freely in summer pastures, creating an authentic mountain experience.

The artificial lake created for snowmaking in winter becomes a small boating pond during summer months. Pedal boats rent for 10 GEL per hour, while the surrounding area includes picnic tables and a small playground maintained by the resort management.

Children particularly enjoy visiting the Bakuriani Botanical Garden, where endemic Caucasian plants grow alongside traditional medicinal herbs. The garden’s greenhouse showcases rare alpine species that bloom briefly during the short mountain summer. Entry costs 3 GEL for adults, children under 10 enter free.

Accommodation: From Soviet-Era Hotels to Mountain Guesthouses

Bakuriani’s accommodation options range from renovated Soviet-era hotels to family-run guesthouses that showcase traditional Georgian hospitality. Hotel Bakuriani, the town’s largest property, completed renovations in 2025 that modernized rooms while preserving the building’s distinctive 1970s architecture. Rooms start at 80 GEL per night in summer, including breakfast.

Guesthouse Mtatsminda offers a more intimate experience with just six rooms in a traditional stone house. Owner Nino Khutsishvili serves homemade dinners featuring ingredients from her garden, with the smell of fresh dill and coriander filling the dining room each evening. Rooms cost 45 GEL per night, with dinner available for an additional 20 GEL.

For budget travelers, Hostel Javakheti provides dormitory beds for 15 GEL per night. The common room features a wood-burning stove and communal kitchen where guests often share meals and stories. Private rooms cost 35 GEL per night.

Several new Airbnb properties have appeared since 2024, including renovated chalets with mountain views and modern amenities. Prices range from 60-120 GEL per night depending on size and location. Book early for July and August, when Georgian families traditionally vacation in the mountains.

Budget Breakdown: Summer Costs in 2026

Bakuriani remains one of Georgia’s most affordable mountain destinations, with costs significantly lower than European alpine resorts. Budget travelers can expect daily expenses of 50-70 GEL including accommodation, meals, and local transport.

Budget Range (40-60 GEL per day):

• Hostel bed: 15 GEL
• Meals at local cafes: 25 GEL (breakfast 5 GEL, lunch 10 GEL, dinner 10 GEL)
• Local transport: 5 GEL
• Trail access fees: 5 GEL

Mid-Range (80-120 GEL per day):

• Guesthouse room: 45 GEL
• Restaurant meals: 35 GEL
• Activity fees (horseback riding, adventure park): 30 GEL
• Souvenirs and extras: 10 GEL

Comfortable (150+ GEL per day):

• Hotel accommodation: 80 GEL
• Fine dining and wine: 50 GEL
• Guided tours: 30 GEL
• Private transport: 40 GEL

Transport costs from major cities add to the overall budget: Tbilisi (12 GEL by marshrutka, 150 GEL by private taxi), Kutaisi (18 GEL by marshrutka), Borjomi (3 GEL by train plus transport to Borjomi).

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the weather like in Bakuriani during summer?

Summer temperatures range from 15-25°C during the day, dropping to 8-15°C at night. Pack layers and rain gear, as afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August.

Is Bakuriani suitable for children and elderly visitors?

Yes, the town center is relatively flat and easy to navigate. Many trails offer gentle options, though some hikes require moderate fitness levels. Family activities are available year-round.

Can I visit Bakuriani without speaking Georgian or Russian?

English is increasingly spoken among younger locals and tourism workers. Basic Georgian phrases help, but many visitors manage with translation apps and gestures.

What should I bring for hiking in the area?

Sturdy hiking boots, warm layers, rain jacket, sun protection, and plenty of water. Weather changes quickly at altitude, and some trails lack water sources.

Are restaurants and shops open year-round?

Most establishments operate seasonally, with full services available June through September. Some hotels and restaurants close during off-season months, so check ahead for spring and autumn visits.

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📷 Featured image by Nick Osipov on Unsplash.