Borjomi Travel Guide: Your Ultimate Planning Companion for Georgia

Planning a Trip to Borjomi in 2026

Borjomi keeps getting busier. Since Tbilisi started feeling the full weight of overtourism in 2025, more travellers have been pushing into the Samtskhe-Javakheti region looking for space, cool air, and something that doesn’t feel manufactured for Instagram. Borjomi delivers all three — but it rewards people who plan rather than people who improvise. Transport connections have shifted, some guesthouses that were popular in 2024 have closed, and Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park introduced updated permit rules at the start of 2026. This guide cuts through the noise.

Where Borjomi Actually Sits

Borjomi is a small spa town in the Mtkvari River gorge, about 150 kilometres southwest of Tbilisi. It sits at roughly 800 metres above sea level, which is high enough to feel meaningfully cooler than the capital in summer — expect highs around 24°C in July when Tbilisi is baking at 37°C. The town stretches along the narrow valley floor, with forested mountains pressing in from both sides. That geography is the whole point. The mineral water that made Borjomi famous worldwide bubbles up from these volcanic slopes, and the national park that carries the town’s name covers more than 85,000 hectares of protected forest directly behind it.

Borjomi is not a big city. The central area is compact and walkable. Most visitors treat it as a base for the national park and a short stop for the mineral springs, then move on toward Akhaltsikhe and Vardzia. That is a reasonable approach, but the town genuinely rewards spending two or three nights rather than a rushed half-day.

Getting to Borjomi in 2026

The most comfortable option from Tbilisi is the direct train. Georgian Railway runs services from Tbilisi Central Station to Borjomi-Likani, the station closest to the park entrance and better-positioned than the older Borjomi station. As of 2026, there are two departures per day — morning and afternoon — with the journey taking around three hours. Tickets run between 10 and 20 GEL depending on class. Book through the Georgian Railway app or website at least a day ahead during summer, when seats go fast.

Marshrutkas leave from Tbilisi’s Isani or Didube stations and cost around 15 GEL. They are faster on a good day — roughly 2.5 hours — but entirely dependent on traffic through Gori. If you hit the E60 highway at the wrong time, that estimate stretches painfully. The marshrutka drops you in central Borjomi near the market, which is convenient if you are staying in town.

Driving from Tbilisi gives you the most flexibility, particularly if you plan to continue to Akhaltsikhe (35 kilometres further southwest) or Vardzia. The road through the gorge after Borjomi is scenic but narrow in places — take it steady.

Borjomi Central Park and the Mineral Spring Area

The central park is where first-time visitors head, and rightly so. You enter from the bottom of town near the cable car station, pay a small entrance fee (5 GEL as of 2026), and walk along a shaded path following the stream up into the valley. The sulfur-tinged smell hits before you see the spring — warm, slightly eggy, unmistakably mineral. At the main source, you can fill a cup directly from the tap for free. The water is warm and intensely carbonated, with a flavour that is somewhere between salt and metal. It is an acquired taste, but standing there and drinking water straight from the same spring that filled Soviet-era bottles feels like the right way to arrive in Borjomi.

The cable car runs up to a viewpoint above the park. Rides cost around 5 GEL each way and the view over the gorge from the top is worth it on a clear morning. The park itself has a small amusement area, swan pond, and a series of walking paths — it is pleasant without being remarkable. Budget 1.5 to 2 hours here.

Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park: Trails and Permits

This is the main reason serious hikers come to Borjomi. The national park is one of the largest protected areas in the Caucasus, and the trail network ranges from easy half-day walks to multi-day routes that cross into Kharagauli district. The park headquarters and visitor centre are at the Borjomi-Likani end of town, about 2 kilometres from the main park entrance — you can walk there or take a taxi for around 5 GEL.

As of 2026, day hikers do not need an advance permit for the main marked trails, but overnight camping inside the park requires registration at the visitor centre. Do this in person the day before you plan to camp. Fees are 10 GEL per person per night. Rangers are active on the trails, particularly in summer, and unregistered campers are turned back or fined.

Popular routes include:

• Trail 1 (day hike): Up to the alpine meadows above the treeline — about 12 kilometres return, with 700 metres of elevation gain. The beech and pine forest smells extraordinary after rain, damp and sharp at the same time.
• Trail 5 (multi-day): The cross-park route linking Borjomi with Kharagauli, usually done in 3–5 days. Requires gear, food, and careful weather planning. Best attempted June through September.
• Tba Lake trail: A shorter option, roughly 8 kilometres return, finishing at a small mountain lake. Less elevation, suitable for mixed-ability groups.

The visitor centre sells detailed trail maps for 5 GEL. Download the maps offline before you go — mobile signal disappears within 30 minutes of entering the forest.

The Bakuriani Day Trip

Bakuriani is a ski resort town 30 kilometres from Borjomi by road, but the way most people get there is on the narrow-gauge Kukushka train, a Soviet-era line that winds through the forested hills at a pace that feels like it is deliberately savouring the scenery. The train departs Borjomi station in the morning and returns in the afternoon — check the current schedule at the station when you arrive, as times shift seasonally.

In winter (December through March), Bakuriani has functioning ski runs, equipment rental, and a lift system that was upgraded between 2023 and 2025. It is not Gudauri — the slopes are gentler and the infrastructure less polished — but lift passes run significantly cheaper at around 50–80 GEL per day. In summer, Bakuriani is a pleasant highland town at 1,700 metres, useful mainly for the cool air and the walk to the Kokhta viewpoint above town.

2026 Budget Reality

Accommodation

• Budget: Guesthouse bed with breakfast — 60–90 GEL per night. Several family-run guesthouses along the main street and side roads in town offer clean rooms and generous breakfasts.
• Mid-range: Small hotels with private bathrooms and WiFi — 150–250 GEL per night. The Likani area near the park entrance has several solid options in this range.
• Comfortable: The Crowne Plaza Borjomi (the renovated Crown Palace, long the landmark hotel) — from 450 GEL per night. Includes access to the spa facilities and sits directly on the park boundary.

Food

• Budget: Khinkali and a cold beer at a local canteen — 20–30 GEL per person.
• Mid-range: Full meal at a sit-down restaurant in central Borjomi — 50–80 GEL per person with wine.

Activities

• Central Park entrance: 5 GEL



• Cable car (return): 10 GEL
• National Park camping permit: 10 GEL per night
• Kukushka train to Bakuriani (return): approximately 4 GEL
• Bakuriani ski lift day pass: 50–80 GEL (winter)

Where to Eat and Drink in Borjomi

The restaurant scene in Borjomi is small but functional. Do not come expecting Tbilisi-level variety — but the Georgian staples are done well, and a few places stand out.

Retro Restaurant on the main pedestrian strip has been a consistent local favourite for years. The mtsvadi (grilled skewers) come off a proper open grill at the back, and the smell of woodsmoke drifts into the dining room. Order the lobiani (bean-filled bread) as a starter — it arrives still hot from the oven, dense and satisfying.

Café Laguna near the park entrance handles lighter meals — salads, pasta, decent coffee. It fills up with hikers heading in and out of the national park and is a reasonable breakfast stop before an early trail start.

For chacha and wine, the guesthouses are generally your best option. Most family operations keep their own homemade spirits and are happy to share them over dinner. It is the most genuine drinking experience Borjomi offers.

Practical Essentials: Weather, Connectivity, and Timing

When to Visit

Late May through September is the hiking season. July and August are the busiest months — guesthouses fill up on weekends and the park trails see real foot traffic. June is often the sweet spot: trails are clear of snow, crowds are manageable, and the forest is fully green. October brings golden beech leaves and sharply cold mornings — beautiful, but check trail conditions before attempting anything multi-day.

Winter visitors come mainly for Bakuriani skiing. Borjomi town itself is quiet and cold from November through March, with limited restaurant hours.

Connectivity

Magti and Silknet both have coverage in central Borjomi and along the main road. Inside the national park, signal drops quickly. A Georgian SIM from either provider costs around 15–20 GEL at Tbilisi airport or at any mobile shop in Borjomi town. Data speeds in town are adequate for messaging and navigation.

Cash

Borjomi has ATMs near the central market and at the main hotels. Most guesthouses and smaller restaurants are cash only. Bring more GEL than you think you need — the nearest reliable ATM if yours fails is not around the corner.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Borjomi water actually good for you?

The mineral water from Borjomi springs is high in sodium bicarbonate and has been promoted for digestive health since the 19th century. It has genuine mineral content, but drinking large quantities is not recommended if you have high blood pressure or kidney issues. Most visitors drink a cup or two at the spring and enjoy the experience for what it is.

How many days should I spend in Borjomi?

Two nights is the practical minimum if you want to see the central park and do one proper hike in the national park. Three nights gives you time for a day trip to Bakuriani or Akhaltsikhe as well. Borjomi also works as a one-night stop if you are moving between Tbilisi and Vardzia, but you will only scratch the surface.

Can I visit Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park without a guide?

Yes. The main marked trails are clearly signposted and the visitor centre provides maps. A guide is useful for the longer multi-day routes where navigation becomes more complex and weather can change quickly above the treeline. For day hikes, independent access is straightforward as long as you register appropriately and carry enough water.

What is the best way to get from Borjomi to Vardzia?

Most visitors take a marshrutka from Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe (about 35 kilometres, under an hour) and then a separate marshrutka from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia (around 60 kilometres, just over an hour). There is no direct public transport from Borjomi to Vardzia. Hiring a driver for the day from Borjomi — covering both Akhaltsikhe and Vardzia — costs roughly 150–200 GEL and is the most efficient option if time is limited.

Is Borjomi safe for solo travellers?

Borjomi is a calm, small town with very low crime rates. Solo travellers, including solo women, generally report feeling comfortable both in town and on the national park trails during daylight hours. Standard precautions apply on remote multi-day routes — inform someone of your planned route, carry a charged power bank, and do not hike alone above the treeline in poor weather.

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📷 Featured image by Alina Makhatyrova on Unsplash.